Advice
Alpines
Annuals
Asters
Bamboo
Barbecues
Books
Bulbs
Cannas
Carnations
Chrysanthemums
Clematis
Compost/Fertilizers
Cottage garden
Cyclamen
Dahlias
Daisies
Decking
Delphinium
Exotics
Events & shows
Florists
Flower Art / Arranging
Forum
Fruit
Fuchsia
Garden Buildings
Garden Design
Garden Furniture
Geraniums
Gifts
Grasses
Hellebores
Herbs
Hints and Things
Hostas
Houseplants
Hydroponics
Kids Gardening
Lavatera
Lawns
Lighting
Lilies
Links
Lupins
Magazines
Orchids
Ornamental & Stoneware Features
Organic
Patio/Containers
Pelargoniums
Plant Disease
Pots and Containers
Public Gardens
Rhododendron
Roses
Seeds
Shrubs
Shopping
Tools
Topiary and Box Hedging
Trees
Vegetables
Water Features
Wild Flowers

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

HOME  >> BULBS

Planting bulbs
Bulbs are ideal for anyone who rates themselves as keen but clueless because they are one of the easiest plants to grow. Provided you plant them at the right time of year at more or less the right depth, they will reward you year after year with a reliable display of blooms


When should I plant?
The planting time for bulbs varies broadly according to their flowering time. Spring-flowering bulbs should be planted from early autumn, so they have time to produce new roots before the onset of winter. Tulips are the main exception to this rule because they can be planted in late autumn or even early winter without adversely affecting the flowering for the following season. Summer-flowering bulbs, such as Tigridia and gladioli, and autumn-flowering bulbs, such as colchicums and nerines, are best planted from late spring onwards (see table, below).

Bulb planting guide

Type of bulb

planting time

depth

spacing

Allium

early autumn

5-7cm (2-3in)

15-30cm (6-12in)

Anemone

early autumn

5cm (2in)

10cm (4in)

Arum

mid-summer

15cm (6in)

10cm (4in)

Begonia

spring

2.5cm (1in)

22-30cm (9-12in)

Chionodoxa

early autumn

2.5-5cm (1-2in)

7cm (3in)

Colchicum

late spring

7cm (3in)

10-15cm (4-6in)

Crocus, spring

late summer

5-7cm (2-3in)

10cm (4in)

Crocus, autumn

mid-summer

5-7cm (2-3in)

10cm (4in)

Cyclamen

late summer

2.5cm (1in)

15cm (6in)

Eranthis

late summer

2.5-5cm (1-2in)

10cm (4in)

Erythronium

late summer

5-7cm (2-3in)

10cm (4in)

Fritillaria

early autumn

5-7cm (2-3in)

15-45cm (6-18in)

Galanthus

late summer

7-10cm (3-4in)

10cm (4in)

Gladiolus

mid-spring

7-10cm (3-4in)

10-15cm (4-6in)

Hyacinthus

early autumn

10cm (4in)

0cm (8in)

Iris reticulata

autumn

7-10cm (3-4in)

10cm (4in)

Leucojum

late summer

7-10cm (3-4in)

10-20cm (4-8in)

Lilium

mid-autumn

10-15cm (4-5in)

15-45cm (6-18in)

Muscari

late summer

5-7cm (2-3in)

10cm (4in)

Narcissus

late summer

5-12cm (2-5in)

10-20cm (4-8in)

Nerine

spring

2.5cm (1in)

15cm (6in)

Ornathogalum

mid-autumn

5-7cm (2-3in)

10-15cm (4-6in)

Puschkinia

early autumn

5-7cm (2-3in)

7cm (3in)

Scilla

late summer

5-7cm (2-3in)

5-10cm (2-4in)

Sternbergia

mid-summer 7cm (3in)

12cm (5in)

Tigridia

late spring

5-7cm (2-3in)

15cm (6in)

Tulipa

late autumn

7-15cm (3-6in)

10-20cm (4-8in

Bulb Tips

All bulbs should be planted with the 'nose' (pointed bit where the shoot comes out) at the top and the 'basal plate' (flat bit where the roots are produced) at the bottom. The only exception to this rule is with crown imperials which are hollow and should be planted on their sides to prevent rotting. To achieve a natural-looking swathe of bulbs you will need to plant them in irregular blocks at variable planting distances. If you find this difficult, try scattering the bulbs and planting them exactly where they land. Where only a few bulbs are being planted, use a strong trowel or one of the special cylindrical bulb planters to make the hole. For larger swathes of bulbs use a spade to dig out a planting block to the correct depth, position the bulbs and then replace the excavated soil. It is often recommended to plant bulbs on a layer of sharp grit to aid drainage and help prevent rotting, but this is only of benefit on heavy soils and the value of this technique is not certain.

Planting in lawns or under trees is very similar. When planting in lawns, carefully peel back the turf, then dig out the soil and plant the bulbs. Once the soil has been replaced and consolidated by treading lightly, you can replace the turf

and fill any gaps with sieved garden soil.
Under trees, planting bulbs singly is the best option because large excavations will cause more damage to tree roots and may encourage suckering.
If you have had problems with rodents such as mice and squirrels digging up and eating your bulbs in the past, you might like to cover the planting block with a layer of chicken wired buried just below the surface.

Tip
Planting in cages
Avoid damaging bulbs that need lifting each year, by planting them in cages. This is a particularly useful technique for temporary displays of hardy bulbs or tender bulbs that will need lifting and storing somewhere frost free overwinter. Make simple wire cages out of chicken-wire and bury them out of sight so the bulbs are at their correct planting depth. Then, at the appropriate time, you can lift the cage complete with the bulbs.

 


 

Quick Search Plants and Products
Compost


SITE MAP